Brewed with a bit of care, this somewhat rougher green tea from a local Zhejiang cultivar can provide a surprisingly soft liquor with a velvety mouthfeel. It has a bold, savory bent on the whole, cooked bitter greens or creamed spinach seasoned with a hint of nutmeg and the gentle essence of cooked rice; something of a very mild curry is suggested. More time brings out a walnut astringency, and the tea has enough backbone to accompany savory meals, or contrast sweet snacks. A green tea for the hungry.